Saya pengen nanya pengaruh pemakaian filter itu seperti apa? Perbedaan penggunaan filter CPL, Yellow,Red, Close Up, dsb bagaimana? Apa yang terjadi kalo semua filter itu digabung jadi satu rangkaian? Oia, lupa, kapan kita pakai filter2 tersebut. Terima kasih

CPL punya dua fungsi: 1) menghilangkan refleksi pada benda2 berkilau, 2) membuat warna biru langit menjadi lebih gelap dan saturated, pada posisi pengambilan 90 derajat dari lintasan matahari.
Yellow dan Red adalah black and white filters, yang "memblokir" warna2 bersebrangan (Y vs B dan R vs C), sehingga warna2 tersebut tampil lebih gelap di hasil akhirnya.
Close up digunakan untuk memotret benda2 dari dekat sesuai namanya.
Kalau digabung semua, bisa saja, tetapi harus ssuai dengan konsep fotografinya, lagi pula ada konsekuensi kehilangan f stop dan kehilangan ketajaman gambar, karena setiap medium filter membiaskan ("menekuk jalur")) cahaya.
Penggunaan: Pahami dulu prisip2 filter, penggunaannya terserah kreatifitas dan konsep fotografi Anda. Terlalu luas untuk dibahas satu per satu.

Saya kopi dr
Helpful Hints about Photographic Filters

Color Film:

UV Protector: For all camera and camcorder lenses. Reduces unwanted UV light. Also a protective Filter for your lense.
Sky-1A: Use outdoors in open shade and on overcast days to reduce blue and add warmth to scene.
Haze-1: Reduces excess blue caused by haze and ultra violet rays.
Haze-2A: Greater ultra-violet correction than Haze-1. Ideal for mountain, aerial and marine scenes. Adds some warmth to the visble colors.

UV-15: Haze filter for 3200 degrees Kelven film for photofloods.
UV-16: Reduces excessive blue in electronic flash, also may be used for haze correction.
UV-17: Greater haze correction, reduces blue in the shade.

Polarizer: Deepens blue skies, saturates colors and reduces glare and reflections. Ideal when photographing water or through glass. Filter can be rotated to create the effect desired.

Ciircular Polarizer: Used like and gives the same effects as a polarizer, but designed for cameras with "beam-splitting" metering syatems. Most 35mm auto-focus cameras require a circular polarizer. Check the owners manual.

ND (Neutral Density): Eliminates overly, bright, washed-out, density images. Balances exposure enabling you to create properly exposed images. Has no effect on colors.

80A: Balances daylight film for use with 3200 K lamps.
80B: Balances daylight film for use with 3400 K lamps.
81: Yellowish, warming filter.
81A: Balances daylight film to electronic flash. Prevents excessive blue.
81B: For warmer results than 81A.

82: For any 100 degree increase in Kelvin temperature.
82A: For all daylight film. Used in early AM or late PM to reduce the excessive red of the light. When using Type A (3400 K) films under 3200 K lamps.
82B: For cooler results.
82C: For cooler results or when using 3200 K lamps.
85: Balances Type A film with daylight. 5500 to 3400 degree Kelvin.
85B: Balances Type B film with Daylight. 5500 to 3200 dregee Kelvin.
CC30R: For under water photogrphy, to cerrect color. Also to compensate for distortion of color when shooting through transparent plastic windows.
812: Creates flattering portraits through improved skintones. Ideal when out-doors in open shade and with electronic flash - adds warmth to image.

Close-up Set (+1, +2 and +4: Single element diopter lenses enable lens focusing on subjects much closer than standard lens. Great for nture subjects. Can be combined for added versatiity.
CC (Color Compensating): Usrd to compensate for deficiencies in the color quality of light sources.
Color Grads: Half color, half clear, with a smooth transition in between. Create vibrant skies while retaining natural foreground color. Blue, Plum, Tangerine, Grape, Straw, Tobacco, Sunrise, Sunset, Tropic Blue and ND (Neutral Density).

Center Spot: A heavy diffusion filter with a clear circular spot in the center. Ideal for portraits where a less distracting background is desired.
Enhanging: Creates vibrant reds and oranges with minimal effect on cooler colors. Incredible fall foliage effects. Ideal for enhancing red and orange subjects.

FL-D: Used with Daylight film to eliminate harsh green cast caused by Fluorescent Light.
FL-B: For use with indoor type B film to eliminate harsh green cast caused by Fluorescent Light.
Fog (Available in Grades 1, 3, 5): Create a mood or add drama to your scene. Produces a misty atmosphere. Lights flare, lowers contract.
Double Fog (Available in Grades 1, 2, 3, 4, 5): Create the look of natural fog with dreamlike tones. For "Thick as Pea Soup" effect use a #5 density.

Log Contrast (Available in Grades 1, 2, 3, 4, 5): Lowers contrast, mutes colors, white areas remain, black becomes lighter in high contrast lighting. Use for portrait and landscapes.
Sepia (Available in Grades 1, 2, 3): Creates a warm brown tone and offers a "Turn of the Century" look to add nostalgia. Use with all color films. Sepia #3 also adds a light fog effect to soften the mood.

Softnet Black (Available in Grades 1, 2, 3, 4, 5): Create flattering portraits. Minimize unwanted details with little effect on sharpness or contrast.
Softnet White (Available in Grades 1, 2, 3, 4, 5): Soft diffusion effect with a misty look. Produces halation from highlights, dark areas appear less dense.
Softnet Red (Available in Grades 1, 2, 3, 4, 5): Creates a soft diffusion effect while rendering a warmth to the scene.
Softnet Skintone (Available in Grades 1, 2, 3, 4, 5): Creates a soft diffusion effect while enhancing skintones.
Soft Contrast (Available in Grades 1, 2, 3, 4, 5): Contrast is reduced shile allowing black areas to stay black, produces softer, less intense colors.

Star Effects: Adds sparkle - produces a star effect from many different light sources (Sun, Candle, Streetlight, ect.) Available in 4pt., 6pt., and 8pt. Available in 2mm grid pattern. The 2mm grid produces a broad, bright star with larger rays and, sometimes, flare.

Special Purpose:

Hot Mirror: Some digital still cameras can have increased sensitivity to infrared light that may cause color rendition problems. The tiffen Standard hot Mirror is designed to remedy this problem by reflecting most infrared light, especially between 800 and 1200 nanometers. Check owners manual.

Black and White Films:

#6 Yellow 1: Absorbs excess blue outdoors, thereby darkening sky slightly, emphasizing the clouds.
#8 Yellow 2: For black and white films. Produces greater contrast in clouds against blue skies and foliage.
#9 Yellow 3: Deep Yellow for stronger cloud contrast.
#11 Green 1: for all pan films. Ideal outdoor filter for more pleasing flesk tones.
#12 Yellow: "Minus blue" cuts haze in aerial work, excess blue of full moon in astrophotography. Recommended as basic filter for use with Kodak Aero Ektachrome Infrared.
#13 Green 2: For male portraits in tungsten light, renders flesh tones deep, swarthy. Lightens foliage. Use with pan film only.
#15 Deep Yellow: For black and white films. For dramatic dark skies, aerial scenes.

#16 Orange: Deeper than #15. Use with pan film.
#18A Infra-red: For Black and white infra-red film only, no visible transmission.
#21 Orange: Absorbs blues and blue-greens. Renders blue tones darker such as marine scense. Use with pan films only.

#23A Light Red: Contrast effects, darkens sky and water, architectural photography. Not recommended for flesh tones. use with pan films only.
#25 Red: Use with pan films for dramatic sky effects. Use wirh infr-red fils for better contrast.
#29 Dark Red: For strong contrasts; copying blueprints.

#47 Dark Blue: Accentuates haze and fog. Used for dye transfer and contrast effects.
#47B Dark Blue: Lightens same color for detail.

#56 Light Green: Darkens sky, good flesh tones. Use wit pan films only.
#58 Dark Green: Contrast effects in Microscopy, produces very light foliage.
#61 Dark Green: Extreme lightening of foliage.

#87 Infra-red: For black and white infra-red film only, no visible transmission.

Blue Film:

#BF: Keep such material away from you :D.

Thanks buat Mas Goenadi dan mas Rochim. it will helpful for me. Thanks a lot

Tambahan mas ... pake filter yang bagus, karena filter "kacangan" punya potensi untuk mengurangi kualitas. Lensa2 sekarang rata-rata punya coating anti flare yang bagus, tetapi dengan menggunakan filter kita menghilangkan kegunaan coating itu. Jadi kalo filternya "kacangan" ya malah bisa memperjelek gambar. Filter ditumpuk ? ya artinya menumpuk efek jeleknya (untuk yang kacangan lho). Tambahan : numpuk filter di depan lensa wide angle bisa memberikan efek vignetting

filter yg kelas bagus merek nya apa aja sih? cokin termasuk bagus nggak?

cokin bagus mas tapi kalo perawatannya gak bagus....gampang kegores...karena kayanya dari mika ya??

pemakaian filter apa sama dengan klo kita mencampur warna pada cat? misalnya klo biru lalu kita pake/ tambahin warna kuning jadi warna lain?? apa kayak gitu intinya??/ maaf klo tanggapannya ngaco